EL DIA DE LOS MUERTOS:
Day of the Dead in Oaxaca
With Epigrapher Stanley Paul Guenter
October 27 – November 4, 2008

Far Horizons proudly presents its yearly trip to Oaxaca timed to coincide with the magical celebrations that take place as families prepare to welcome the spirits of the departed during their annual visit home.

We have designed a very special trip that includes leisurely visits to archaeological sites, private visits to the studios and workshops of well-known artists and craftspeople, and dining on memorable food of the region. We will visit renovated Colonial churches built in the 15th and 16th centuries some of which contain exquisite, hand-made and recently-restored pipe organs from the same era. We have arranged private talks and demonstrations by renowned collectors and artists in Arrazola, Santo Tomás Jalieza, Ocotlán, and Teotitlán del Valle. As an added treat, we will dine on delicious regional cuisine in several of the city’s most outstanding restaurants.

The trip is scheduled to be in Oaxaca at the time of El Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, and we will join Oaxacans at local markets to view and purchase the wonderful breads and colorful candies unique to this holiday. And at the cemetery of Xoxocotlán, we will stroll among the vividly decorated gravesites dramatically illuminated by hundreds of candles. Throughout the night, the aromas of copal incense and pungent marigolds mingle with the fragrance of freshly-ground chocolate, baked bread and sweets as children play and families remember.

Please join us as we celebrate life with the people of Oaxaca.

ITINERARY: (B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner

DAY 1: Fly to Oaxaca and transfer to Hotel Aitana, housed in an historic building within walking distance of the main square nand our home for the duration of the trip. Gather this evening for a welcome dinner at El Asador Vasco Restaurant, overlooking the zócalo, or main square, and giving us a preview of Oaxaca’s charming atmosphere and tasty cuisine. (D)

DAY 2: We begin the day with a short walking tour of the downtown section. The Rufino Tamayo Museum contains an exquisite collection of pre-Hispanic art. Spend the afternoon in the Santo Domingo Cultural Center, housed in the cloister of the breathtaking Church of Santo Domingo. Until 1992, the ex-convent was used as an army base. Recently restored, it now is a museum displaying artifacts from the valley sites as well as the extraordinary Mixtec treasures found at Monte Albán. Within the walls encircling the vast Santo Domingo complex and covering one fourth of the grounds is the new ethno-botanical garden containing a large collection of plants that are related to Oaxacan culture, either in the present or in antiquity. Dinner tonight is at the delightful La Olla restaurant. (B/L/D)

DAY 3: Today we will tour three rarely visited sites. Lambityeco was not begun until about 300 AD, late for this area. An important find here was a tomb containing large, carved stucco heads of the God of Fertility, Cocijo. Dainzú is an extensive site containing several platforms and a ballcourt similar to the one found at Monte Albán. Nearby, the hilltop site of Yagul is crowned by a fortress with magnificent views of the surrounding countryside. Located within the fortified walls are buildings encircling plazas, several Mixtec tombs and the valley's largest ballcourt. Dinner is planned in the lovely garden patio of El Naranjo restaurant, located a block from the zócalo in a restored 19th-century colonial home and featuring contemporary Oaxacan cuisine based on a century of family recipes and prepared by Chef Iliana de la Vega. (B/L/D)

DAY 4: We begin with a visit to Zaachila. According to the codices, after the Zapotec kings abandoned Monte Albán, Zaachila became their capital. The tombs that have been found here are decorated with relief sculptures of the rulers and the gods they served. The nearby village of Arrazola is home to master carver Manuel Jimenez, the originator of the whimsical brightly colored woodcarving style that is now associated with Oaxaca. We will meet Mr. Jimenez’ son and learn about the inspiration his father found in the forms of nature that surrounded him and the tradition he passed on. After time to explore the town and view the work of other carvers, we continue to the 16th-century Dominican convent of Cuilapán. This imposing and truly unforgettable church and monastery complex stands alone in the landscape, a timeless remembrance of the influence of the Dominican clergy in Colonial Mexico. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

DAY 5: We travel to Ocotlán de Morelos to see the church and ex-convent, restored by the famous Mexican artist, Rodolfo Morales. This complex is now a dazzling and exquisitely tasteful building that contains a museum displaying the artwork of local artists and artisans. While in Octolán, meet with the legendary Aguilar sisters in their home studios, internationally renowned contemporary folk artists. First “discovered” by Nelson Rockefeller in his visits to Mexico in the 1970's in search of fine pieces for his collection, their painted clay figures appear in important collections of Mexican folk art all over the world. In San Bartolo Coyótepec, the valley's famed black pottery is hand-molded by an age-old technique and fired in pit kilns. Here, enjoy a private demonstration of a tradition of burnishing the clay with quartz stones to achieve its distinctive shine. Finally, travel to Santana Zegaché to see another of the charming 16th century churches restored by Rodolfo Morales. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

DAY 6: Each Saturday, merchants from throughout the valley come to Oaxaca to lay out a profusion of hand-made crafts, indigenous foods and medicinal herbs in one of Mexico's largest traditional markets. This morning will be spent in Oaxaca City’s weekly market. In the afternoon drive to the magnificent site of Monte Albán, spanning the crest of an artificially flattened mountain top. Dating from 500 BC, Monte Albán was a major Zapotec ceremonial center; more than 150 tombs have been found here, containing some of the richest treasures in the Americas. We will see the famous danzantes, incised figures once thought to be dancers but which are now thought to represent mutilated captives. In the evening, travel to a local cemetery to witness one of the most important and moving traditions of the Day of the Dead. Each grave has been fastidiously decorated with flowers, food, candles and humorous skeleton figures depicting the life of departed loved-ones. At dusk community members walk to the cemetery to join the spirits of their ancestors who have returned for this one holiday. The reunion is marked by feasts, and laughter and tears as children play and families remember. Throughout the night, the pungent aromas of copal incense and cempasuchil (marigolds) mingle with the fragrance of hot chocolate, fresh bread, and burning candles. Dinner is on our own this evening. (B/L)

DAY 7: Begin with a drive through mezcal country to Tlacolula. Mezcal is distilled from a species of agave different from that of tequila. Most mezcal has a very strong smell and may or may not come with a worm in the bottle. The Capilla del Mártir parochial church in Tlacolula is a stunning display of virtuosity in wrought iron. The doorway, choir screen, and pulpit, with their baroque convolutions, have no equals in Mexico's religious architecture. Also eye-catching are the realistic, almost life-size sculptures of the 12 apostles in their various manners of martyrdom. A few years ago, a secret passage was found in the church, leading to a room that contained valuable silver religious pieces. The silver was hidden during the Revolution of 1916, when there was a tide of anti-clerical sentiment; the articles are now back in the church. Nearby is Teotitlán del Valle, a village whose name means Place of the Gods in the Nahuatl language. After the conquest, Dominican missionaries introduced sheep to this village and since then it has become distinguished for the manufacture of hand-loomed rugs, blankets, and serapes. By special arrangement, meet privately with renowned weaver, Isaac Vasquez, for a demonstration and talk about his work using only hand-made natural dyes and wools. Sr. Vasquez’ work is represented in private collections and museums throughout the world. Continue to the beautiful site of Mitla, renowned for the spectacular mosaic fretwork that lines its palace walls. In the afternoon, return to Oaxaca with a stop en route at Tlacochahuaya’s 15th-century convent to see its ancient sun clock, and the interior walls adorned with traditional paintings created by Native artists when the church was built. The sanctuary also houses a pipe organ originally constructed in 1650 that has been recently restored. By special arrangement, if she’s available, we meet with Cicely Winter, a member of the Organ Restoration Project, who will talk with us about the history of these musical instruments and the restoration project, and give us a short recital on this lovely organ. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

DAY 8: Today is free to relax, visit Oaxaca’s wonderful markets and shops or continue exploring the city. Our final dinner party will be in Casa Oaxaca, the celebrated restaurant that is considered the best in the city. (B/D)

DAY 9: After breakfast, we depart for the airport and our return flights to the USA. (B)

(B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner

TRIP DATES: October 27 - November 4, 2008

STUDY LEADER: Stanley Paul Guenter was born in the prairies of Canada and was first introduced to the Maya culture and ancient script at the age of ten. He has been studying the MesoAmerican cultures ever since. He obtained his undergraduate degree at the University of Calgary, and completed his Master's Degree at La Trobe University, in Melbourne Australia, with Dr. Peter Mathews. He is now ABD (All But Dissertation) for his PhD in Archaeology from Southern Methodist University. He has worked on archaeological projects in eastern Tabasco, Mexico and is currently an epigrapher and archaeologist with two archaeological projects in Guatemala's Peten: The Regional Archaeological Investigations of Northern Peten, Guatemala (RAINPEG), directed by Dr. Richard D. Hansen, and the Southern Methodist University El Peru/Waka' project, directed by Dr. David Freidel. Stanley is one of the outstanding rising stars of MesoAmerican writing systems and has taught and presented at many conferences in Canada, the United States, Australia, Germany and Denmark.

TRIP COST: $4,495.00 (per person, double occupancy). Includes all hotels, most meals (as noted), land transportation within Mexico, entrance fees, local guide and private demonstrations.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: International airfare; a separate check for $50.00 to go to “The Organ Restoration Project”; passport and/or visa fees; airport or departure taxes; beverages, alcoholic drinks, or food not included on regular menus; excess baggage charges; personal tips; gratuities to guides and drivers; laundry; telephone, email, and fax charges; or other items of a personal nature.

SINGLE SUPPLEMENT: $395.00. Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, the single supplement will be charged.

REGISTRATION: A deposit of $500.00 along with a separate check made out to “The Organ Restoration Project” is required along with your registration form. Final payment is due 75 days before departure. Upon receipt of your deposit, the donation check, and completed registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a clothing and equipment list. An information book designed for this trip, including maps of archaeological sites and articles of pertinent interest will be sent upon receipt of final payment.

CANCELLATIONS AND REFUNDS: Cancellations received in writing at least 75 days before departure will receive a refund less a $250.00 administrative fee. Cancellations received less than 75 days before the departure date will not receive a refund. If for any reason you are unable to complete the trip, Far Horizons will not reimburse any fees. Upon registering for the trip, the purchase of travel protection with both trip cancellation and emergency evacuation is strongly recommended.

NOTE ABOUT ITINERARY CHANGES: Changes in our itinerary, accommodations, and transportation schedules may occur. A good book to read as well as a flexible attitude and a sense of humor are essential.

ORGAN RESTORATION PROJECT: Spread throughout the villages in the Valley of Oaxaca are lovely churches, many with pipe organs shipped in from Spain in the 16th and 17th centuries. Over the years, these musical instruments have decayed. The Institute of Historic Organs is a grass roots organization that raises money to restore these exquisite organs. More than four hundred and fifty years after the first Dominican friar set foot on Oaxacan territory to initiate the process of religious and cultural conversion, sixty-seven historic organs serve today as a reminder of a bygone musical era. During the past twelve years, seven of these organs have been restored. However, the remaining instruments are in varying states of deterioration, their voices silenced by the passage of time. Almost all of these extraordinary pipe organs, constructed between approximately 1700-1900, can be restored or reconstructed, so that one day they too may be able to recreate the sounds which once filled Oaxaca´s magnificent baroque churches. To protect and promote this legacy, the Instituto de Órganos Históricos de Oaxaca (IOHIO, pronounced YOYO) was established in 2000. Your $50.00 check goes directly into the fund to restore and protect these instruments. For donations in U.S. dollars, an exemption is arranged through the Westfield Center for Early Keyboard Studies, a registered 501 (c) 3 tax exempt organization in the U.S., which forwards all donations to the IOHIO after the exemption has been granted. If a tax deduction is not required, contributions may be made directly to the IOHIO.

Please note that some days will involve lengthy walks over uneven terrain. For maximum enjoyment we recommend that you be in good physical health. If you have questions please contact Far Horizons for a more detailed description of the physical requirements of the trip.

LIMITED TO 15 PARTICIPANTS