
THE RICHES
OF SCOTLAND
With Dr. Christopher Bowles
Scotland
contains some of the last great open space of Europe, famed for
its moody highland mountains, mist shrouded glens, dazzling lochs,
wild coastlines, and lush, verdant forests. It is a nation of
astounding contrasts. The sweeping landscapes possess a dreamlike
quality, whether seen cloaked in mist or rising regally above
the mirror of a lake. And scattered throughout this spectacular
scenery are romantic castles, magnificent country manor houses,
engaging fishing ports, and quaint characteristic villages.
Brave,
proud and fiercely independent, the Scots have been fighting to
maintain their freedom since their earliest history. The Romans
tried to occupy the country for years, never fully succeeding, and
England spent centuries trying to annex it until eventually they
had to accept a Scottish king on their throne. Today’s Scotland
is noted for its haunting bagpipes, tartan and tweed, curious food
(haggis, made of spiced sheep’s innards and oatmeal is considered
the national dish), and, of course, the malt whiskey that is one
of the world’s most prestigious drinks.
Far
Horizons is proud to present a 16-day tour of Scotland. Travel
from the southern border with England to the Orkney Islands and
enjoy a rare chance to see many of the historic and archaeological
sites that few visitors manage to find. View prehistoric stone
circles and chambered tombs, gaze in awe at glorious abbeys and
cathedrals, and savor the view from battlements of medieval castles
in remote and beautiful areas of the country. A highlight of the
trip will be three days spent in the remote Orkney Islands, containing
the densest concentration of archaeological sites in Britain and
testifying to their long history of settlement. We have carefully
chosen a route that travels on minor roads and country lanes through
some of the most picturesque rural countryside in the British
Isles.
Nights
will be spent in traditional coaching inns, elegant centuries-old
country homes, with a night in a magnificent castle. Dining will
be a special pleasure as we sample regional delicacies and share
pub lunches with villagers.
ITINERARY
(part
I):
(B)
breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner |
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Day
1: Depart the USA for
the flight to Scotland.
Day
2: Arrive in Glasgow. Spend the morning at Edinburgh Castle, dominating the city’s skyline from its perch on the precipitous crag of Castle Rock. During its stormy history of sieges and wars it has evolved from its earliest beginnings in the 11th century to the present-day national monument. Transfer to Dirleton and overnight for three nights in the Open Arms, located on the village green at Dirleton and overlooking Dirleton Castle. Gather this evening for our welcome dinner party. (D)
Day
3: Today’s
drive takes us to two spectacular sites. Begin at Rosslyn Chapel,
a tiny 15th-century church with architectural treasures hidden
within. Every conceivable roof rib, capital, boss, arch and corbel
is encrusted with human and animal figures, moldings and foliage,
and the exquisite work of the mason is enhanced by the plainness
and severity of the late mediaeval Scottish architecture. Situated
amidst beautiful scenery close by the River Tweed, Traquair is
the oldest inhabited house in Scotland, visited by 27 kings. Originally
a Royal Hunting Lodge, it was owned by the Scottish Crown until
1478 when it passed to a branch of the Royal Stuart family whose
descendants still live in the house today. The main structure
contains early 16th-century carved oak paneling, a beautiful
painted ceiling and mural. As
the religious orientation of the house’s occupants changed,
the building played host to secret masses, and a secret stairway
leading to the Priest’s Room attests to the problems faced
by Catholic families. At the end of the tree-lined avenue, the
famous Bear Gates have remained closed since 1745 when the last
person to walk through them was Bonnie Prince Charlie. The 5th
Earl promised that they would not be re-opened until the restoration
of the Stuart monarchy. Tonight’s dinner party will be held
in Borthwick Castle. This
stunning, privately owned castle stands on the summit of a knoll
on the periphery of the Borders immortalized by Sir Walter Scott.
It was built in 1430, was once the refuge of Mary Queen of Scots
and the Earl of Borthwell, and was besieged by Oliver Cromwell
in 1650. The atmosphere and grandeur of its romantic past has
been lovingly cherished and maintained. Dinner in the main banquet
hall will be one of the highlights of our trip. (B/D)
Day
4: Few better spots than Cairnpapple Hill could have been chosen in Central Scotland for rituals, burials or ceremonies of the highest order; it has been the focus of attention of prehistoric peoples, on and off, for nearly 3000 years. The function of the site has clearly changed over its five main phases of use, with a henge, cairn and burial pits still visible today. A clear day will allow a view of islands on both the East and West coasts of Scotland. We continue on to the royal palace of Linlithgow, the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots. Rebuilt by James V in a vast and ornate style, the building contains a Great Hall that is 94 feet long. Built on an extinct volcano outcrop making it almost impregnable, Stirling Castle dominated Scottish history for centuries and is one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture in Scotland. It has been occupied since prehistoric times and played an important role in the country’s military history. (B/D)
Day
5: Today we will visit several spectacular sites. We start the day at Melrose Abbey, the site of the first Cistercian settlement in Scotland. Unlike its Cistercian predecessor it is far from austere - greatly and lavishly ornamented with capitals, bosses and corbels carved with fruit, flowers and foliage. Humorous additions to the masonry include human figurines around the exterior walls - the cook with his ladle, the mason with his mallet, the fat monk, and, flying high on a gargoyle - a bagpipe playing pig! This church represents the high point in 15th-century Scottish decorated architecture. An afternoon drive takes us to the fairy-tale Caerlaverock Castle, the finest example of a medieval castle in southwestern Scotland. A residence as well as a stronghold, its three-sided shape is unique in Britain, and the double-towered gatehouse and triangular layout surrounded by a water-filled moat and earthen rampart reflect some of the changes in design it has undergone in its turbulent history. Time permitting, we will finish the day at Sweetheart Abbey, the last Cistercian foundation in Scotland founded in 1273. The foundress, Dervorgilla, was laid to rest here, along with the casket containing the embalmed heart of her beloved husband. Overnight at a traditional coaching inn in town of Moffat. (B/D)
Day
6: Today we will drive into the Highlands by way of Glasgow, Scotland’s largest city. Glasgow was founded as a monastery in the 6th century by Saint Kentigern, or Mungo as he is known in Gaelic, a bishop of the British kingdom of Strathclyde. For most of its history, Glasgow maintained a strong connection with the Catholic Church with the Bishops of Glasgow playing key parts in the medieval history of Scotland. Very little of Glagow’s medieval architecture remains, though we will view two of its ancient buildings; the magnificent Norman cathedral and Glasgow’s oldest house, the 15th century Provand’s Lordship. After leaving Glasgow, we will travel to Dumbarton on the Clyde coast. Dumbarton Rock is a plug of volcanic rock jutting into the Clyde estuary. As early as the 5th century AD, the rock had become a fortress of the British kings of Stratchlyde who used Alcluith (Clyde Rock in old Welsh) to raid the coasts of western Scotland and Ireland. Saint Patrick himself wrote a letter to King Cerdic of Strathclyde beseeching him to stop taking Irish Christians as slaves. The first phase of occupation ended with the Vikings who laid siege to the rock and burned its buildings to the ground in 870. The rock was used again as a medieval castle in the 13th century, and later as a fort to control the Clyde and supply troops to fight the Jacobites in the Highlands. Tonight, we will stay in the Georgian planned town of Inverary. (B/D)
Day
7: The valley of Kilmartin has one of the highest concentrations
of prehistoric sites in Scotland. Visit Nether Largie South Chambered
Cairn dating to the 3rd and 2nd millennia BC and the contemporary
Temple Wood Stone Circles. See the displays in Kilmartin House
Museum. Explore Dunadd Fort high located on an isolated rocky
cliff and considered one of the main centers of the Scots in the
kingdom of Dalriada. The outline of a footprint and a hollowed-out
basin in the rock has been interpreted as being part of the royal
inaugurations of the kings of Dalriada. Continue to Falkland,
one of Scotland’s most picturesque villages. The stunning
Palace of Falkland dates from the 16th century and was erected
as a royal hunting lodge for the Stuart kings. The courtyard
facades with their buttresses modeled as classical columns incorporate
medallion busts, the work of two French stone masons. The ‘Catchpole’,
or Royal Tennis Court, is the oldest in Britain. We will stop
for coffee or tea in Kind Kyttock’s Kitchen, a traditional
Scottish tearoom with home baked goods, homemade preserves and
other Scottish delicacies and housed in a charming 17th-century
terraced cottage overlooking the cobbled square. Overnight in
the charming historic town of Pitlochry at the Atholl Palace Hotel,
the epitome of Scottish Baronial splendor. (B/D)
Itinerary (Part II)
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