
ON
THE TRAIL OF THE SHAMAN:
Including
Day of the Dead Festivities
in Guatemala
No trip currently scheduled
May we suggest another of our
current Mexico/Central America Destinations
Journey on a very special 12-day trip as we follow the TRAIL OF
THE SHAMAN through the world of the Guatemalan Highland Maya. Learn
the history of pre-Columbian civilizations and how the Spanish conquest
affected these peoples. Explore ancient Maya highland cities including
the preclassic site of Abaj Takalik, where incised monuments echo
themes found throughout Maya history, and visit Iximché,
the still living Kaqchikel capital when the Spanish arrived. This
fortified city and its people were not easily defeated, and as we
climb over the ravines and moats protecting it we will begin to
understand why. As
we behold the majestic ruins of Colonial New Spain in the extraordinary
city of Antigua, we will contemplate how the architecture of Christian
conversion was adapted to Maya belief as surely as the Maya adapted
to their conquerors.
Today’s
Highland Maya practice religious rituals based on ceremonies with
roots in the world of their ancient forebears and in the world of
Medieval and Renaissance Spain. We will have the opportunity to
witness some of these rites during visits to churches where Maya
presently worship, to holy sites that are open to foreigners, and
to Quemaderos (sacred shrines) that are hidden places where
shaman come to worship in secret. And we will clearly see the blending
of these beliefs as we observe the veneration of three different
Maximones, cigar smok-ing, whisky drinking statues that
are worshiped as living gods.
This
wonderful trip is scheduled to include day of the dead festivities
held in Santiago Sacatepequez where huge, beautiful kites are flown
to raise the souls of the dead to heaven and to turn away evil spirits.
The inhabi-tants of this area believe that on November 1st they
can communicate with their dead by flying these colorful kites high
in the air with messages of happiness.
ITINERARY:
(B)
breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner
Day
1: Arrive Guatemala City where our study leader will meet us.
Overnight in the Hotel Princess.
Day
2: Today’s route takes us to two rarely visited sites
along Guatemala’s southern coast. With design elements that
resemble both Olmec and Classic Maya art, El Baul's carved monuments
may represent the first flowering of the Maya civilization. This
archaeological site is, two thousand years later, still an active
place of worship. In the afternoon visit Abaj Takalik, once an important
trading center. This community, made out of adobe brick, contains
beautifully carved stelae and sculptures of pot-bellied people that
have been found here appear to date from the first century before
Christ. Overnight in the colonial-style Pension Bonifaz in Quetzaltenago
for two nights. (B/L/D)
Day
3: This morning, travel to Zunil, dominated by a stunning colonial
church where the image of Maximón, a plastic tailor’s
dummy dressed in ski wear, gloves, and sunglasses, is still openly
revered with pomp and ceremony. The
people here make clothing using pre-Columbian weaving techniques
and the women wear striking long purple shawls. Today is market
day and there will be time to visit the craft stalls and visit the
women’s co-operative to see the display of locally made textiles.
(B/L/D)
Day
4: We begin today in the charming village San Andres Xecul to
visit one of the most extraordinary churches in the highlands. We
walk the cobble-stoned streets past thatched roof buildings to visit
one of the shrines of Maximón, a cigar smoking, whisky drinking
deity dressed in layers of clothing and considered a living god.
Then we are off to Momostenango, one of the most traditional communities
in the highlands. The village is known throughout the world for
its superbly made woolen blankets (or chamarras), scarves
and rugs, woven on large foot-looms. Sunday is market day, and we
see some of the fine examples of weavings on display. The ancient
260-day Tzolkin calendar round is still in use here, and there are
said to be as many as 300 shamans living in the area, each specializing
in a different kind of practice. Momostenango means "place
of the altars," and several sacred sites are found on the outskirts
of the village. With good fortune, we may see a shaman interceding
for his client at one of these holy places. Overnight for two nights
at the cozy Posada de Don Rodrigo in Panajchel, set in lush gardens
on the edge of Lake Atitlan. (B/L/D)
Day
5: Cross Lake Atitlán by boat to reach Santiago Atitlán,
a picturesque town of winding streets lined with thatched-roof houses.
Originally the ancient capital city, religious center and stronghold
of the Tzutujil Maya, it is now a commercial center whose market
is run by women known for their striking headdress, a
thick halo formed by twisting a long ribbon around their hair before
coiling it into position. Here, religious customs blend with Ca-tholicism
as revealed by the community’s veneration of their Maximón.
We will talk about the cofradías of Santiago and
learn how modern Maya preserve the Popol Vuh and other Precolumbian
traditions. Continue to San Antonio Palopó, a small village
of Cakchiquel peoples. After visiting the church and walking through
the community, visit the San Antonio Palopó Cooperative where
a wide range of products are made, including hand-woven fabrics.
While here, examine two sacred shrines rarely visited by tourists.
(B/L/D)
Day
6: The highland village of Chichicastenango comes alive with
color as hundreds of Maya merchants from throughout the highlands
arrive for the Thursday market. While here, they worship at the
Catholic church carry-ing out rituals that are a fascinating blend
of Maya and Christian rites. Many also climb a nearby hill to pay
their respects at an ancient stone shrine. Candles and incense are
often found burning in front of Pascual Abaj, and sometimes the
idol is draped with parts of a chicken offered in sacrifice. If
fortunate, we may see a cere-mony in which an Aj Q’ij,
or shaman, intercedes with the gods for his client. As
we climb to visit this sacred spot, stop at a mask factory to reflect
upon the costumes created for the diverse dances that are part of
every Maya festivity. Overnight for two nights in the Hotel Santo
Tomas in Chichicastenango. The hotel’s bedrooms are filled
with artwork and traditional furniture, and the patios are filled
with colorful macaws and flowers that rival those of many botanical
gardens. (B/L/D)
Day
7: Utatlán, or Qumarkaaj in the local Maya
language, was the K'ichee capital at the time of the Spanish conquest.
In April 1524 Pedro de Alvarado arrived at Utatlán and invited
the four K'ichee’ kings to dinner. Instead of offering a banquet,
he took them captive and burned them at the stake, then laid siege
to the city. Today K'ichee Aj Q'ij consider the cave at
Qumarkaaj to be the most sacred place in the landscape.
(B/L/D)
Day
8: Drive to the Late Postclassic capital of the Kaqchikel Maya,
Iximché, protected by a defensive moat and built to repel
their historic enemies, the K’ichee Maya. The K’ichee
and Kaqchikel were formidable states, wealthy in trade, successful
in war, and with populations in the hundreds of thousands. Their
royal families claimed affiliations with the kings and courts of
the rest of Mesoamerica, and their histories are preserved in sagas
and stories still known and performed by their descendants. Walk
to a sacred area hidden near the site, and with luck, observe a
present-day shaman performing age-old rituals to the gods. In the
afternoon drive to Antigua. Overnight for the next four nights in
the exquisite Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, built around the excavated
remains of a 16th-century monastery. Dinner is free to enjoy one
of the city’s many fine restaurants. (B/L)
Day
9: Antigua is a peaceful and beautiful relic of bygone days
with cobbled streets and whitewashed houses that look almost as
they did two hundred years ago. This morning, visit the churches
of La Merced, Santa Clara, the Cathedral, and walk the Via Cruz
past the stations of the Cross to El Calvario at the end of the
Avenida de los Pasos. Inside the overwhelming ruins of the Monastery
of San Francisco, we will see fresco fragments and architectural
details dating perhaps to the 16th-century. The rest of the day
is free to explore this lovely city. (B)
Day
10: Today is free to enjoy Antigua. (B)
Day
11: Today is All Saint’s Day, or dia de los muertos,
and we will drive to Sacatepequez to join the local people for their
festivities. From the early morning hours, the people in this village
gather in the narrow streets and begin their procession to the local
cemetery. Once
there, they take part in one of the most colorful traditions of
Guatemala, flying giant kites to communicate with their loved ones
who have passed away. The celebration takes place in the local cemetery,
and it ends with a sumptuous lunch and a traditional dish called
"fiambre." The giant kites are huge, and have small messages
tied to their tails in which the villagers let their dead know how
they are doing and ask God for special favors. Gather this evening
for a special dinner party in one of Antigua’s elegant restaurants.
(B/L/D)
Day
12: Airport transfer for the return flight to the USA. (B)
(B)
breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner
STUDY LEADER:
2006 Study leader to be announced.
TRIP
DATES: No
trip currently scheduled
TRIP COST:
(per person, double occupancy)
Includes international airfare from Houston, all hotels, most meals
as noted, entrance fees, and a pre-trip information workbook that
contains pertinent articles on the area.
COST
DOES NOT INCLUDE: Price does not include alcoholic or other
food or beverages not on regular menus; airport departure taxes;
passport and visa fees; excess baggage charges; insurance, laundry,
personal tips, and other items of a personal nature.
SINGLE
SUPPLEMENT:
Far Horizons will attempt to find a roommate for participants who
request one. However, if one is not available, the single supplement
will be charged.
RESERVATION: A $500 deposit (payable to Far Horizons) will confirm
your reservation. Final payment is due 75 days prior to departure.
Upon
receipt of your deposit and completed registration form, you will
be sent a reading list and a clothing and equipment list. An information
book designed for this trip, including maps of archaeological sites
and articles of pertinent interest, will be sent upon receipt of final
payment.
CANCELLATION
AND REFUNDS: Cancellations received in writing at least 75 days before
departure will result in an administrative fee of $250.00. Cancellations received
less than 75 days before departure will not receive a refund. If for any reason
you are unable to complete the trip, Far Horizons will not reimburse any fees.
Registrants are strongly advised to buy travel insurance that includes trip
cancellation.
No
trip currently scheduled
May we suggest another of our
current Mexico/Central America Destinations
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