ETHIOPIA: The Wonders of the Horn of Africa

With Professor Neal Sobania

Ethiopia, formerly called Abyssinia, is one of the oldest countries in the world. Perched atop Africa’s highest plateau, the country is protected by forbidding deserts and tropical lowlands. Despite its apparent mountainous isolation, Ethiopia has long been a crossroads for Africa, the Middle East and the Indian Ocean, and a site of dynamic interaction between people from throughout the world. It developed its own written language and has a sophisticated culture based upon a deep love of religion. In the highlands, Ethiopia's Orthodox Church predates the Vatican and is one of the oldest continuously Christian churches in the world. The lowlands are dominated by Islam with the very first Muslims who faced persecution in Mecca, being granted refuge in Ethiopia and establishing places of worship before Islam triumphed in its birthplace in the Arabian Peninsula. Ethiopia has a fascinating and rich history which includes legends claiming that the Axumite Kingdom dates back to when the Queen of Sheba ruled the land, and that Ethiopia’s first king, Menelik I, was the son of this queen and King Solomon of Israel.

Far Horizons proudly presents an 18-day trip to one of the world’s most remote and fascinating countries. The trip is planned around the Orthodox Holy Week celebrations where, in Axum and Addis Ababa, priests dress in spectacularly colorful robes to lead the faithful in prayers and chants. The exciting itinerary includes spectacular scenery, visits to fabulous ancient ruins, and the opportunity to mingle with the many different people from across the country.

ITINERARY: (B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner

Day 1: Depart USA.

Day 2: Arrive in Addis Ababa, the capitol of Ethiopia, this evening. Overnight in the Hilton Hotel for two nights.

Day 3: In the early morning drive north to Mount Entoto. In 1881 Emperor Menelik II made his permanent camp here, after the remains of an old town, believed to have been the capital of the 16th century monarch Lebna Dengel, were discovered. Menelik took this discovery to be a divine and auspicious sign for his new capital. We will view the Church of Mariam, where Menelik was crowned Emperor of Ethiopia in 1889, and the Church of Archangel Raguel. On our drive back to the city, we will visit the Shiromeda cloth market. This afternoon we visit the National Museum as well as the Institute of Ethiopian Studies. The Institute was founded in 1963 and established to develop and operate the library and ethnographic museum. Gather this evening for our festive welcome dinner party. (B/L/D)

Day 4: Early morning transfer to the airport for our flight to Axum. This ancient city, with its half-buried ruins of palaces, monolithic stelae, and subterranean tombs, is one of Ethiopia's most historic sites. The legendary capital of the Queen of Sheba, Axum is today the hub of Ethiopian Christianity. Visit the Stele Park where several colossal monolithic obelisks still stand together, marking the tombs of the Axumite royals. Nearby, is the subterranean Tomb of Ramha, a former king of Axum. Beneath the Palace of Kaleb, steep stone steps lead to underground galleries and chambers, locally believed to be the treasury of Emperor Kaleb. Visit a historically important dedicatory stone dating to about 320 AD with an inscription written in three languages - Sabaean, Ge'ez (earliest written Ethiopian language), and Greek, and explore the tombs of King Kaleb and his son Gabar Maskal. Overnight in the Ramhai Hotel for four nights. (B/L/D)

Day 5: Today we explore the historical market unique to the days prior to Palm Sunday. We visit an artist’s studio and enjoy lunch with a local family. In the afternoon we visit the Cathedral of Maryam Tsion originally built in the 16th century and also known as the Church of St. Mary of Zion. The Ark of the Covenant of Biblical fame is purported to be housed in a specially built chapel adjacent to the church. Also in the compound is the church Treasury where we will be shown crowns of past emperors whose coronations were here in Axum. Visit the new cathedral built by Haile Selassie in 1965 and inaugurated during the visit of Queen Elizabeth II. Dinner is on our own tonight. (B/L)

Day 6: An all day road trip takes us east through dramatic volcanic formations to Yeha, the capital of the earliest kingdom in Ethiopia. Here, the pre-Axumite Temple of the Moon is the oldest known sacred site in Ethiopia dating to about 700 BC It is reputed to be the best preserved example of South Arabian style temple architecture in the world. Next to the shrine is the Church of Abune Aftse, one of the “Nine Saints” who did much to spread Christianity in Ethiopia. This building's front facade has been fitted with carved stones from the original temple. We also visit the Monastery of Abba Pantalewon (Abba is the word for father in Ethiopian) another of the “Nine Saints” credited with transforming a pagan temple into the church and monastery we know today. We continue to the Axum Museum where we view ancient pottery and glass, Roman amphorae, bronze jewelry, clay figurines that reveal the hairstyles of ancient Axum, and many other artifacts. (B/L/D)

Day 7: Today is Palm Sunday and the air is filled with excitement as people gather for the religious ceremonies so important to the Orthodox believers. Ceremonies for the ‘Hosanna’ celebrations begin late on Saturday evening and go well into the night with priests and deacons leading worshippers in singing and dancing, all accompanied by the rhythmic pulsing of drums. We join these festivities and observe Sunday morning worship service at the Enda Yesus Church. This afternoon we also explore Gobedra, where Axum’s giant stelae were quarried, and see the impressive relief of a lion cut into one of the rock outcroppings. Finally we explore Dungur, an elite residence popularly thought to be the Palace of the Queen of Sheba, though this fact has never been substantiated. (B/L/D)

Day 8: This morning we fly from Axum to Lalibela, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lalibela is often called the Eighth Wonder of the World as it contains towering churches that were carved from the soft, volcanic tuff in which they stand. Some churches lie almost completely hidden in deep trenches, and others stand in open quarried caves. A complex and bewildering labyrinth of tunnels and narrow passageways with crypts, grottoes, and galleries connects them all. Within this mystical world, priests go about their daily tasks, seemingly oblivious of the outside world. Standing 38 feet tall with seventy-two pillars, Medhane Alem is not only the largest in Lalibela, it is the largest monolithic rock-hewn church in the world. The oldest of the churches, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Bet Maryam is the only Lalibela monolith with a porch. The remains of exquisite early frescoes can be seen on the ceiling and upper walls, and there are many elaborately carved details on the piers, capitals, and arches. Bet Golgotha houses remarkable reliefs of figures, early Christian art rarely seen in other parts of Ethiopia. Overnight for two nights at the Roha Hotel. (B/L/D)

Day 9: Spend today exploring more of the rock-carved churches of the area. The cruciform-shaped Bete Giorgis is the most perfect and beautiful church here; its interior is dominated by depictions of Saint George killing the dragon. We will also visit Yemrehane Khrestos, a striking church sited within a cave built by King Yemrehane Christos (let Christ show the way) who ruled before King Lalibela. (Note: To reach this church we must hike a short distance up rather steep terrain.) Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

Day 10: Fly to the royal city of Gondar where magnificent fortified palaces dominate the landscape. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the fortified city of Fasil Ghebbi was the residence of the Ethiopian emperor Fasilides and his successors. Surrounded by a 300-foot-long wall, the fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The oldest and most impressive structure is the two-story palace of Emperor Fasilidas, built of solid basalt stones. Other royal buildings include the library of Emperor Yohannes I, the House of Song where royal ceremonies took place, the elegant reception and banquet hall of Emperor Bakaffa, and the palace of this king's wife. Visit the Church of Debre Birhan Selassie, an imposing structure with its harmony of brightly colored ceilings completely covered with intricately painted angels. Overnight at the Goha Hotel. (B/L/D)

Day 11: This morning’s drive takes us to Gorgora on the northern shores of Lake Tana. Thirty-seven islands dot this immense body of water, and twenty of them shelter historic churches and monasteries, many decorated with impressive paintings. We will board a boat for a cruise on Lake Tana to visit several of the island’s monasteries. Located on the largest island on Lake Tana, Narga Selassie is ornately decorated. The interior walls are entirely painted with exuberant, colorful frescoes of saints and their adventures. Originally founded in the 12th century, the medieval church of Debre Sina Mariam has been recently restored. Located on the forested Zege Peninsula, Ura Kidhane Mihret is the most impressive of the southern monasteries. The walls of the church are completely covered with remarkable 16th-century murals that offer a revealing look into medieval Ethiopia. Nearby is Azuwa Maryam, containing several fascinating paintings. Overnight for two nights at the Tana Hotel. (B/L/D)

Day 12: Bahir Dar is still frequented by tankwas, papyrus reed boats made by the Woyto people who live on the shores of the lake. We visit a boat production facility to learn how this ancient water craft is constructed. This afternoon, visit the Besawit Palace, a former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie I as well as the local basket market. Finally, experience a Good Friday service at Mehal Zege Georgis Church. Dinner is on our own. (B/L)

Day 13: Lake Tana is the source of the Blue Nile, and the most dramatic wonder here is the Blue Nile Falls which we will visit this morning; in flood-stage it is more than 1,300 feet wide. After dropping over a sheer chasm more than 150 feet deep, the mist drenches viewers a half mile away. In a gorge created by the waterfall is a small rain forest lush with tropical vegetation and inhabited by lively monkeys and a multitude of spectacular birds. This afternoon’s flight returns us to Addis Ababa with some time to rest before we gather for a late dinner. Following dinner we witness the celebrations and rituals of Easter observance which begin after dark and continue until the morning. Overnight for one night at the Hilton Hotel. (B/L/D)

Day 14: An early morning departure takes us south of Addis Ababa towards the Rift Valley. Our first stop is Melka Kunture located along the Awash River and considered one of the most important Paleolithic sites in Ethiopia. Continue to the church of Adadi Mariam, the southern-most rock hewn church in Ethiopia. Contemporaneous with those of Lalibela (in fact local tradition says that it was built by King Lalibela in 1106), the church was carved below ground level and contains 24 windows surrounded by a wide, high tunnel. It is still being used today. Our final stop is at Tiya, classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, where we can see the northernmost example of a peculiar type of engraved, standing stone monoliths that stretch across parts of southern Ethipoia. Overnight for two nights at the lovely Bishangari Lodge (only a limited number of single rooms available here.) (B/L/D)

Day 15: Visit the Rift Valley Lakes area (part of the Great Rift Valley that extends from Turkey to southern Africa) and particularly Abiata-Shala Lakes National Park. Shala, the southern lake, fills a crater almost 1000 feet deep, while nearby Abyata is a shallow pond – each creating its own environmental niche. With our naturalist guide we will have the opportunity to view and understand a landscape rich in its concentration of birds. We may see the silvery cheeked hornbill, Great White pelicans, Greater and Lesser flamingoes, a yellow-fronted parrot and plenty of kites and hawks. Bring your binoculars! We will eat lunch at Wondo Genet, a hot springs resort, and will also visit the Wondo Genet College of Forestry where we will also have a chance to walk through the forest adjacent to the campus with ample opportunities for birding. (B/L/D)

Day 16: We wend our way back to Addis Ababa stopping along the way to explore Crater Lake on top of Mt. Zukqala as well as an extinct volcano. (B/L/D)

Day 17: Today we visit several artists’ studios, observe the making of traditional jewelry at the workshop of a goldsmith as well as explore the Mercato, one of the largest open-air markets in Africa, where dizzying displays of food, spices, carpets, religious artifacts, and traditional dress entice Ethiopians and tourists alike. Tonight will be our farewell dinner. (B/L/D)

Day 18: The group will have a tour of Addis Ababa Fistula Hospital this morning. Following lunch, we are free to do any last minute shopping or sightseeing before our departure for the airport in the early evening and our flight back to the U.S.A. (B/L)

(B) breakfast, (L) lunch, (D) dinner

TRIP LEADER: Neal Sobania is a professor of history and the executive director of the Wang Center for International Programs at Pacific Lutheran University in Tacoma, Washington. He began his relationship with Ethiopia in 1968 as a U.S. Peace Corps Volunteer; he later received his M.A. from Ohio University and Ph.D. at the School of Oriental and African Studies in the University of London. His past research and publications—based on an extensive collection of oral traditions—have focused on ethnic identity and formation of pastoralist societies in pre-colonial northern Kenya and southern Ethiopia. His present research and publications are on the ethno-historical identity of gold and silversmiths, and the place of religious painters in contemporary Ethiopian society, in addition to a serious examination of the use of historical photographs as research documents. His recent book, Culture and Customs of Kenya (2003), is a general introduction to the cultural, geographic, ethnic and linguistic diversity of this dynamic country. He is a major contributor to the catalog Painting Ethiopia: The Life and Work of Qes Adamu Tesfaw (2005) that accompanied the recently closed traveling national exhibition of the same name that originated at the Fowler Museum at UCLA.

REGISTRATION INFORMATION:

2009 TRIP DATE: April 6 - 23, 2009

2009 TRIP COST: $8,395.00 (per person, double occupancy)
Includes all hotels, most meals as noted, entry fees, and ground and air transportation within Ethiopia.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: roundtrip international airfare from the United States, a donation as outlined below, passport or visa fees, gratuities to guides and drivers, all beverages, food not on regular menus, laundry, excess baggage charges, personal tips, or departure taxes.

SINGLE SUPPLEMENT: $795.00 Should a roommate be requested and one not be available, this supplement will be charged.

FUEL SURCHARGES: Far Horizons must pass on price increases for uncontrollable charges such as flights and other services due to additional fuel charges.

NOTE ON DONATION: As a tour company that benefits from the cultural and natural riches of our destinations, we have a policy of donating to the scientific and cultural projects and museums we visit. This has created a bond between Far Horizons and the academic and local communities that has helped us establish an extensive list of lecturers and contacts in each of our destinations. We ask that each participant write a check to the noteworthy project we designate. The donation amount is $150.00 per person and is made by check directly to the donation project. Note that the donation is required as part of your registration for the trip and that it is non-refundable. We will be designating a donation project for this trip shortly.

The Society of Friends of the IES is undertaking an ambitious and critical mission to construct a new, computerized Library, with lecture hall, exhibition space, and laboratory for the conservation of rare books, photographs, magic scrolls, and manuscripts. The current building was not originally designed as a library and is both structurally unsound and can only house a fraction of its current holdings. The establishment of the new library will at the same time make available space in the old Palace building for a vastly expanded and improved Museum. This is a one-time effort to preserve Ethiopia’s cultural heritage for all future generations. Visit their website.

NOTE ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS TO ETHIOPIA: This itinerary is built around the KLM flight from New York’s JFK Airport through Amsterdam to Addis Ababa. These flights are not daily and are subject to change. Should the air schedule change our itinerary may also change accordingly.

NOTE ON BISHANGARI LODGE: Bishangari is an eco-lodge on the eastern shores of Lake Langano by the well-preserved Munessa Shashamene Forest. Shadowed by huge ancient fig trees and located in a natural wilderness, the lodge encompasses a wildlife sanctuary of wetlands where baboons laze about during the day and hippos come to feed at night, ancient equatorial forest with several 500-year old trees and home to velvet and colobus monkey, antelopes and warthogs, and a secluded beach. The entire lodge is ours alone for the three days we are there. Please be aware, however, that there are only nine bungalows which means that group members normally in a single room may have to share here. While at the lodge, daily excursions have been planned; you may choose to remain behind to fish, swim or just unwind on the porch of your bungalow. After the faster pace of the northern part of Ethiopia, we will enjoy the relaxation in an environmentally friendly environment.

PLEASE NOTE: This trip is for the hardy! This itinerary has been designed to be as comfortable as possible, but this part of the world is still under-developed. The infrastructure throughout Ethiopia is not what we have learned to expect in more modern countries. Our four-wheel drive vehicles are well maintained, but there will be some long days with travel over unpaved roads. We have carefully chosen hotels that are the best available, but they frequently are not up to Western standards - there will be times when our rooms will not have hot water, or perhaps will have no water at all; the standards of cleanliness will occasionally be less than we would like; and electricity might be sporadic. Many of the religious buildings in Ethiopia are not open to women, and we have intentionally included sites in which all are welcome with the exception of Maryam Tsion Cathedral in Axum where women are only allowed in the new cathedral. Long walks may be required to reach some areas, including walks over steep gradients and over poorly maintained paths. The adventurous nature of the itinerary makes it essential that participants be in good physical condition and have the ability to maintain a flexible attitude. Team spirit and a sense of humor will be helpful! If you have questions about your ability to handle this sort of challenge, please call us.

REGISTRATION: A completed registration form and a deposit of $500 (per person) payable to Far Horizons. Final payment is due 75 days before departure on January 21, 2009. Upon receipt of your deposit and completed registration form, you will be sent a reading list and a clothing and equipment list. An information book designed for this trip, including maps of archaeological sites and articles of pertinent interest will be sent upon receipt of final payment.

CANCELLATION AND REFUNDS: Any cancellation received in writing at least 75 days before departure will result in an administration fee of $250. Cancellations received less than 75 days before the starting date will not receive a refund. Should you for any reason be unable to complete the tour, FAR HORIZONS will not reimburse any fees. Registrants are strongly advised to buy travel insurance that includes trip cancellation.

LIMITED TO 15 PARTICIPANTS